Warning: If you are reading this and you are someplace that is cold, wet, and full of snow, well, you may not want to scroll any further. That is, unless you are prepared to purchase a plane ticket right now. Southern Thailand seduced us with warm turquoise seas (perfect for just floating), long swaths of golden sand (biggest decision of the day: under which palm tree to park your bum), and big skies painted by sunsets. It was torture to stay there.
Relax Bay, Koh Lanta
Sunset, Haad Khlong Dao, Koh Lanta
So what did we do on Koh Lanta? A whole lot of nothing at all. Except we managed to loose track of time and day of the week. Many a traveler has had their itinerary eaten by Koh Lanta and it’s pretty easy to understand why. And I’m pretty sure we extended our stay “for just two more days” at least three times…
If you are silently cursing us, not to worry, karma did eventually catch up in a rather epic way. Food poisoning that was nasty, messy, projectile, and as a bonus included two long ferry rides! And while most will remember their visit to Koh Phi Phi for Maya Beach (where the movie “The Beach”was filmed), our day trip to the island will be recalled with affection as the most stunning place that we have ever vomited.
Koh Phi Phi- A pretty place to puke
The best way to recover from food poisoning in paradise? Two days in these chairs!
It’s pouring rain. And not just buckets either, this is more of the biblical kind. l lean over the wooden bridge and watch the small vegetable fruit laden boat float beneath me. It’s powered by oar by an old woman and she is wearing a round straw hat. The rain suddenly stops and I wipe the drops from my brow and pull out my camera.
Snap, snap, snap.
And then it hits me. It’s the book cover.
THE cookbook cover. THAT COOKBOOK COVER.
Thailand: The Beautiful Cookbook
The heavy and oversized- more coffee table than cookbook- the one that just appeared on a random Tuesday in the household of my childhood. THAT book, which I used to flip through for hours without the intention of ever preparing a recipe (not much has changed), but was absolutely enchanted by the glossy photos and descriptions of a world that was so very colorful and so very far away.
And I am here.
Pinch me damn it.
Please enjoy some additional highlights from Amphawa& Auyutthaya, Thailand
So here we are. Two months of travel in the books and only a little bit worn and ragged from sensory overload and decision fatigue. Long term travel, as freeing and fantasy filled as it is- is at the same time, frustrating and exhausting. Routines are non-existent and we have become accustomed to feast or famine when it comes to things like availability of shampoo, Advil, snacks, contact lens solution, or for Mike, a sink with hot water to shave. Turning up in a new place every couple of days is definitely exciting, no complaints, but the fantasy of the unfettered traveler is tempered by the rather annoying reality of ensuring proper shelter, food, transportation, and because this is 2017- please add wifi and ATM’s- which incidentally are pre-requisites to the former.
In this way, it’s fairly simple to understand how an intended “one night in Bangkok” slipped easily and without much debate into three. Throw in some fancy rooftop cocktails, a comfy bed, and some big fluffy hotel towels, and next thing you know, five days have gone by. Sawadee ELOISE, and welcome to Bangkok!
Each new day brings a sunrise, a sunset, occasionally a waterfall or a Wat (pic’s below of the Chiang Rai artistic / architectural extraordinaire’s White Temple and Black House), and for now, most definitely a hot and delicious bowl of noodle soup. For Jennifer, this is the culinary equivalent of heaven. And Michael might as well be a local with his mastering of the noodle to chopstick to mouth delivery system adding the just the right amount of slurp! slurp! at the end. We have nothing but love for the we only make one dish -noodle soupjoints overseen by grandma – cooked by momma-served by daughter that drop clumps of long thin rice noodle tangles into a bowl with steaming hot broth and are topped with green onion, sprouts, and some unknown charred pork part (yes, you read that right family Corridon, it says pork).
This year we are happy to skip the turkey, the potatoes, the pie, (though, we would not refuse a serving of the beloved Corridon stuffing), and are giving our thanks to be able to travel to here.
Oh, and the view from our solar-powered bamboo bungalow, ain’t half bad either.
We arrived in Chiang Mai, the largest city in Northern Thailand with luck on our side for the 12 hour overnight sleeper train from Bangkok. In short, we had read some pretty miserable stories about screechy tracks, pushy local food vendors, toilets that were of the hole over the track variety. All signs were leading to rickety coach cars that were the remnants of the 1970’s. And we saw those… from the window of our brand spanking new train car with a smooth ride, chilly air conditioning, a bed concierge (yes, you read that right, though I’m certain I’ve bestowed an elevated title for the job), and for the most part clean toilets (cannot understate the importance of the words clean + toilet together anywhere in Asia). Luck put us on the inaugural trip of this brand new time slot service of the Bangkok-Chiang Mai Express. And did you know that monks get preferred seating on all modes of transportation?
We arrived in Chiang Mai during the mother of all festivals, Loy Krathong (thousands of lanterns released in the night sky and candles floating down the river). Every bed in the city was booked with the thousands of tourists in their elephant printed m.c. hammer pants/ no we did not.
It was hot. It was crowded. There were a shit ton of selfie sticks and iphones up in our faces. Far too many idiot gap year traveler’s turning the streets into a circus and we heard this year was considerably toned down (no pageants, parades, nor fireworks) as Thailand was mourning the death of the King. In spite of the wall of crowd, watching the lanterns ascend across the night sky was stunning.
There was no love lost when the city emptied itself of visitors post festival and we were free to explore Chiang Mai in a resumed stateof normalcy, with her cracked sidewalks, frogger type traffic patterns, university students, massage parlors, street meat vendors, and all. Like Bangkok, Chiang Mai has a constant buzz of cars, motor bikes, scooters, and mopeds. The morning sun is harsh and hits the haphazard blend of buildings in the most unflattering of angles. In spite of the sweat that drips from your brow and pours down your back, you are made to feel cold by the concrete unfriendliness and the total lack of any color other than gray. By the afternoon the hot heavy air that sits over the city is thickened by the diesel fumes and exhaust from the spectacular amount of traffic that builds and clogs the main boulevards. On the surface, it’s a place to easily to dismiss.
But on closer inspection, Chiang Mai begins to reveal herself to the interested by the mouthful. The winding alleyways that lead to secluded gardens that turn on to the street with the noodle carts. The fruit + veg markets that explode with color and smells and seem to turn up unexpectedly in narrow and dark corridors. The refreshing taste of fresh mango and pineapple and the steaming hot takeaway soup that looks like pee in plastic bags. If you look even closer, you can find the symmetry of the stalls in the Waororat Chinatown Market and the after dark delightful chaos of open air dinners of unknown meat parts (so good) had while seated plastic stools in parking lots.
And the absolutely excellent bowls of cheap fresh noodles. Every.Single.Day.
Chiang Mai is also a famous hub in the universe of the digital nomad* (tribe of ex-pat working professionals who only need a reliable internet connection to earn income)- the ranks of which we now are officially a part of). Fully wifi’d up it has a profusion of independent coffee (i.e. what the world was pre-Starbucks) and fruit smoothie bars that one can work in for hours in exchange for a purchase of a single beverage. Chances are 50/50 the bearded guy with the full arm sleeve of tat’s or the barefoot guy sharing the table with you have left Munich or San Diego behind and are creating a post for their travel blog or writing code for an emerging tech start up. No doubt, we eased ourselves right in and felt quite at home. Seriously, the Nimmaniman neighborhood is an Eastern version of the hipster hamlet of Brooklyn-skinny jeans, wayfarer frames, overly expensive locally sourced, hand crafted artisan coffee, and all.
When the city heat got to be a bit too much we headed to hike to hidden monasteries, waterfalls, the highest peak in Thailand, found some elephants to play with, giggled through the ladyboy cabaret show, and walked through many ancient Wat’s that dot the town. Another favorite- ducking into the air con of the ubiquitous 7-11’s to see the young monks read through the comic books.
EWR->LHR->BKK… 23 Hours Later…we arrived in Bangkok, in a dazed state, not knowing what day or time zone we landed in, nor which way was up or down. As we took the long walk from our gate to clear customs we were greeted by a clear shot of the bright orange morning sun rising over the flat horizon. 6:00 am and Bangkok and her environs seemed eerily quiet and even serene.
Bangkok is not a city that awakens slowly nor with a soft purr…in fact when she opens her eyes it is with a jolt and a loud roar. Within moments of getting into the city center we were surrounded by a cacophony of sounds: whoring scooters, zipping cars, the diesel cough of tuk-tuks, and the constant flow of people moving across the city.
I am immediately reminded of Hong Kong, another urban megaopolis that I have been both fortunate and unfortunate to spend a significant amount of time in. Bangkok is full of east meets west contrasts: mega sterile upmarket shopping complexes, corner street shrines, sprawling soot and grim ridden boulevards lined with dingy brick a brack mom and pop businesses, and the ever Asia present brightly colored plastic buckets and stools.
Bangkok street corner shrine on a Friday afternoon
The bright city lights of Bangkok, Thailand
Highlights of our Bangkok stay included a kick-ass afternoon exploring the Wat Pho temple complex & enormous reclining Buddha with the Family Brodeur, dodging one of the street corner scams that Bangkok is famous for, and covering over sixteen miles by foot in two days in an attempt to make a completely unwalkable city, walkable.